Sunday, June 24, 2018

Day 41 - We Take A Cruise

We are up early after a very restful night.  We are dressed and on our way by 9 am.  Taking the bus here is very easy and it saves us from driving and finding and paying for parking.



We enter the old city via Porte St-Jean and walk along Saint-Jean and find a coffee shop to sit and enjoy it and watch the people go by.  Lots of tourists here and a lot of English.  No worries if you do not speak French here in Quebec City, many speak English.  But of course it is respectful to at least try and speak a few words.  I always say it is like as if I visited your country and expected you to speak my language.  A few words go a long way on creating a respectful and friendly experience.

Ironically I speak French everywhere I go here and even though they understand thoroughly what I am saying they hear the English accent and offer menus in English to me as well.  


Bernie is talking to his sister in Calgary, he 
forgot about the time change - sorry Karen



If you are interested in the Hop on Hop off bus you can pick it up in numerous spots.  The most popular spot is in the Place d'Armes Square where the Dufferin Terrasse, Chateau Frontenac and the Tourist Information is.  

I personally would say that if you are physically able to walk around (including up hills) forget about the Hop on Hop off bus.  The area it covers is not that large and it does not run that often and traffic in the Old Quebec City is a pain.  The cost for the Hop on Hop Off bus would be better used towards a good walking tour (see yesterday's post).  



We walk to the Terrasse Dufferin to the Parks Canada Kiosk.  Look for the Beaver symbol that represents Parks Canada 


Parks Canada has sites all over the country that they have deemed National Historic Sites.  Entry to many is free or very minimal and if you have been following my blog you will see we have visited many.  They offer great information, and often they have free tours or very minimal cost tours.  Note children under 17 get in for free - or at least this year they do.

At the Kiosk here you can visit the Fortifications of Quebec City or the Saint-Louis Forts and Chateaux.  

Note it is called a Chateaux because it is where the Governor of Canada stays.  The iconic Fairmont Hotel is called Chateaux Frontenac but it is not a real castle, it is called that because it looks like a castle.  

If you are coming to Quebec City make sure you check out there tours they offer thru Parks Canada.  Here is the link to their site.  But I personally found it a little confusing so I am going to try to explain the sites they offer here and the tours.  Note they have a great brochure at the Kiosk that you can pick up that is helpful.

Saint-Louis Forts and Chateaux National Historic Site that you can visit on your own for a cost of $3.90.  This site is where the second settlement of the Governor of Quebec set up his home.  It is currently a National Historic Site and an Archaeological site.  The offer a tour called Under the Terrace: a Chateau Tour.  Benefit from the experience of our guides on one of our guided tours and get special access to the secrets of the archaeological crypt.  The cost of the tour is an extra $3.90.

Another tour they offer is:  From Lord Dufferin to Today.  From St. Louis Gate to St. John's Gate, follow the evolution of these mythical structures.  By walking on the ramparts, you will understand how one man's vision forged the very identity of Quebec City and how his work continues even today.  Cost is $3.90.

They also have a Musket Firing demonstration and for the kids The Legend of the Talking Walls for kids ages 6 to 12.

One tour I would of loved to do but is only offered August 1st to September 2nd is the Quebec by lantern light.  Quebec in the year 1847.  Follow your guide along this unusual tour.  See the city as if you were a newly arrived immigrant.  Meet several colourful characters from the 19th century and discover unique places.  Cost is $18 and it is 90 minutes.  

Today we are going to do the Fortifications of Quebec National Historic Site Tour.  Of course you can walk along the fortifications on your own for free if you wish but a tour explains a lot.  We just went to the kiosk and signed up for the English Tour.  Our Family Canada Parks pass covered the $3.90 fee each.

The tour description says:  As you enjoy the magnificent views along Quebec's 4.6 km of fortifications, you'll understand why the Historic District of Old Quebec is on UNESCO's World Heritage List.  The numerous activities available will help you learn more about the decisive role the fortifications played in the colony's defense.  

We meet with our guide Delphine who is working for Parks Canada for the summer.  She is a University student about to start her second year.  Her English is wonderful and I love the accent.

We are 8 in total for the tour.  We are the only Canadian couple a father from Washington DC with his three kids and a couple from Boston are with us.  



The tour takes us all over and Delphine explains about the canons, the wall, the defense, and the Citadel.



Here are images of the Citadel that was built by the British; however they did use parts of the French initial City Wall as part of it.  Today the Citadel is occupied by the 22 Royal Regiment and can be toured.



While at the Citadel we are taken within the walls to see how the inner walls were defended.



Delphine explains how a canon was prepped and fired.  This canon was for close range and filled with ammunition that had lots of metal pieces that would fly out and attack those that would be between the outer and inner wall.  You did not want to use a canon as it could potentially damage the outer wall.

Look we spot a marmot 


We spot this sign and it shows the horse carriage rates.  They have set routes they all must take.  Rides are 35 minutes and cost $90 which includes tax.  You are to be let off at the same spot you get on.  I did find this site to book and it does have some detail, but personally if you were wanting to do it I would just book once you get here.  Note horses are not allowed to be out working if it is 32 C and higher.  And I have heard that they will no longer be allowed in future years, but I can not confirm.

After the tour we are needing a bit of a break.  It is quite hot and muggy and a cold drink and lunch is necessary.  We make our way to the lower town and find a cute restaurant to eat at with a great view of the harbour.


After lunch we walk all over the lower town.  It is not as crazy busy as yesterday.  I am guessing the added crowds from the cruise ship have made the difference.



Lower town is just as beautiful.  The shops here are all part of a cooperative type system.  Every store, restaurant, bar, have to be approved and no large brand names are found here.  





You can take the funicular right to or from the lower town up to Dufferin Terrace for $3 per ride.  Strollers are allowed but MUST be folded up.   We did not take it. Both times we walked back up.  First time by the stairs and the second time we just walked along the water and slowly walked up.



The Notre Dame des Victoires.  This church is called Notre Dame of the Victories.  The church is on the spot of the initial home of Samuel de Champlain the original Governor of Canada.  You can still see the outline of his home just in front of the church.  Inside the church it is lovely.  Note the beautiful ship hanging from the ceiling.



love the artistic flair everywhere here - check out these window boxes made of pain cans and brushes


A wonderful museum is here called Musee de la Civilisation - Museum of Civilization. They currently have an exhibit called London Calling.  We visited the last time we were here and really enjoyed.  Note it is right across the street from the cruise pier.

This afternoon we booked a Cruise Tour we booked through Viator for a price of $42 Canadian per person.  It is a 90 minute boat ride along the Saint Lawrence river.  Although I later noticed that if you book directly with the company it is cheaper but then with the taxes it came out $1 more thru their site.  Here is their website - and they offer numerous tours.


It is a perfect day, although quite warm and those clouds are misleading.  The sun is quite strong and both of us ended up getting a bit red.


The boat is huge and offers tons of seating all over, including many spots inside.  They also had a bistro for food and a bar for drinks and even a gift shop.


David our guide, dressed in period costume spoke in both languages and gave an excellent narrative.


The boat is named after Louis Jolliet who was a French Canadian explorer known for his discoveries in North America. Jolliet and Jesuit Father Jacques Marquette, a Catholic priest and missionary, were the first non-Natives to explore and map the Mississippi River in 1673.

It offered amazing views of Quebec




Montmorency Falls.  Here is a link to the park's website.  We visited here a few years ago and it was amazing.  Great site and wonderful trails.  You experience the falls from all angles when you visit there, so try and see it if you can.  

Did you know this falls is higher than Niagara Falls?  But obviously not as wide.  

But for the cruise we get to enjoy it from afar.  



This is the cruise terminal.  As you can see it is right at the Old City.  It is very easy to walk around the lower area but to get up to the top you need to hike up the stairs, take the funicular or a taxi.  Note Quebec City does have Uber but not to the extent we have seen in other cities.


Once we get off the boat we decide to walk along the water and follow the road to Bassin Louise.  Wide walk ways with bike paths beside.  We head towards the local market.  You can easily walk here from the ship (about 30 minutes) and buy some amazing local products, wine, syrup, food items, flowers etc.






We head back to the apartment after a long day.  We are very sticky from a hot day with a ton of walking.  Tonight we decide to stay in.  We have a simple dinner and watch Youtube - we are addicted to The Block New Zealand and currently watching season 4.


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