Three Days In Lucca Italy

We had the pleasure of spending three nights and days in Lucca, Italy.  It is a place I had been wanting to visit after reading about it in Rick Steve’s books.  I knew a visit here from the ship would just not be enough.  So we made a point of adding it to this voyage and to explore it fully.

Lucca is a walled city that is located in Tuscany region.  Between Pisa and Florence.  It was a reasonable distance from the port of Civitivecchia and then reasonable distance to Venice, our next stop.

We booked an apartment with Airbnb within the walled city (that is important) that was actually a two bedroom two bath.  A lot more space than we needed but the price was right and it sure was nice to have that much space.  Heck the apartment was bigger than our apartment at home.

Our first night was all about exploring the town.  The entire town is easy to get around in the narrow streets that are mainly pedestrian with occasional cars in certain areas.  You do have to watch out for bikes and motorbikes though.  

The next day we took our time getting moving.  This is a vacation after all.  After so many ports on our cruise we were ready for some R and R and sleeping in and slowly getting ready was key.  We had breakfast (bought groceries the day prior – cereal, milk, fruit, juice, wine, and bread.  Remember here you get your fruit/veggies and then you weigh them and the sticker prints out that you have to place on the bag for checkout) in the apartment and we left the place around 11 am.

time to stop and smell the pinwheels

Remember to get your coffee in one of the many coffee shops – drinking it at the bar cost a bit cheaper and this is what the locals do.  1.20 E for cappuccino – boy a lot cheaper than the 5E Cappuccino in Sardinia. 

The town looks different during the day that at night.  Many shops/restaurants are open only during the day, and then at night different shops/restaurants and bars are open.  

We explore the town using some guides we have from Rick Steve’s and others.  For lunch we stopped by a bakery and bought some focaccia – mine with onions and Bernie’s with tomatoes and we sat on a bench and had an impromptu picnic.

We booked a walking tour of the town through Viator prior to arriving that started at 2 pm.  We met our guide at the designated spot.  There were about 16 of us.  With people from Italy, a family from Spain, US, and Britain.  A nice pot pourri which allowed us to get to know each other.  

Our guide started on the wall that is now a pedestrian/bike pathway.  The wall was originally a medevial wall that was built to protect the city from other cities like Pisa and Florence and it kept out bows and arrows.  However as time progressed so did the armory, this wall would not do.  A large fortified wall was built around the city at a huge expense to the residents.  Today that wall still stands.  Where many other walled cities in Europe tore down their walls to create roadways, Lucca kept theirs and it is a highlight to the city.  The tour is two hours in length, just right and we learned a lot.

Once home we enjoy some wine and then a nap is order.  

In the evening we venture out again.  We are not really hungry but agree a nice stroll and a stop for some wine and then a stop for a cocktail are perfect end to the evening.  There are numerous bars open and we find a great spot that has live music and the cocktails are even better.  What a great way to end a great day.

The next day is all about exploring the sites we haven’t seen yet.  Again we are slow getting moving but once we are out and we have our espresso we are good to go.  

We want to walk the entire wall.  We enter via the Western gate and we walk clockwise.  The entire wall is 4 km and it takes us one hour to complete at a normal pace with stops for pictures.

We go down the wall and make our way to the Bascillica – it cost 3E to enter but I felt it was worth it.  Make sure to check out the labyrinth etched into the wall just on the outside.

Last stop we need to do is the Guingi Tower – the highest tower in the town that has trees planted on the top with a beautiful lookout – cost is 4E for adults 3E for seniors/kids.  The climb is not too strenuous if you are physically able to climb the …… steps.  It starts out wide but does get narrow.  Once at the top there is a narrow path around the perimeter where you can pose for pictues but it is narrow.  It was relatively quiet when we were there but it was a pain when you needed to get by.  I would hate to see it when it is busy.

Okay we have earned a good meal and well of course wine.  We stop at a nice restaurant that is not fancy, run by a family and has been there for a long time. 

We order half liter of the house wine, a green salad each.  We each have pasta, for me it is porcini mushrooms that are in season currently and Bernie gets the ravioli with pumpkin, that is also in season.  We each have dessert, for me the biscuits with vino santé, and for Bernie a pistachio iced dessert.  All the food was good and the bill came to 60E total, not bad considering all we had.  

Note most restaurants in Italy have a Comperto or Service Charge – usually around 1.50 to 3 E per person.  This is standard and it is just a charge for being in the restaurant.  In North America this fee is not there but it is included in the price of the food.  But also remember that tipping here is not expected.  Usually we round up the bill, like when we get coffees in the morning and it comes to 2.60E we give 3E.  

After getting back to the apartment around 3 pm we rest.  For us it is key to go with the flow and listen to our bodies.  We don’t want to push it and we know the locals take breaks in the early afternoon so we are acting like the locals.  

I did some research and found a restaurant I really wanted to try and was close by, but when we get there at 8 pm it is full – darn I should of made a reservation.  So we start wandering and we find a small family run restaurant off one of the side streets.  We eat inside as the cigarette smoke on the terrace is just too much for us to handle here in Italy.  

Here the house wine is 8E for a whole liter – well that is a sign – we will take a bottle then.   We order mushroom crepe starter and it comes with two crepes so we find it works great to share.   Then a large mixed green salad which also is big enough to share.   We even share a plate of pasta and  a side of grilled vegetables which were sadly too salty.  But everything else was great.  This meal only came to 40E total and again the service charge of 2E per person.

It is now 10 pm and we are strolling the streets.  This place is quite safe and we never felt worried.  

The next morning we are up early, only because we have to catch a train at 1030.  We are sad to say goodbye to Lucca.

Overall we really loved Lucca and would definitely come back.  It is a great spot to call home base and to travel around to the outlying areas – Florence, Pisa, Sienna and all of Tuscany.  The town is easy to get around, quiet and authentic.  Yes tourists come here, but most leave at the end of the day.  Prices are also more reasonable than the bigger places.

Disembarking the Royal in Civitavecchia

Streets are narrow here in Lucca - one van is parked and the other can not get by

It was particularly hard for me to get off the ship.  Maybe because we were only on for a short time, but today I am on the verge of tears whenever I say goodbye to someone else.

We wake and we are showered and completely packed and out of the cabin just before 8.  Breakfast in the dining room this morning where we say goodbye to Felippe, and Silvio.  Both will be here in Jan so that is some comfort.

After breakfast we go to say goodbye to Michael.  And that is hard too!  

Disembarking was a breeze.  Here in Italy the ship gets cleared easily, they don’t require a zero count so in transit can go out and bing back in easily.   But sadly we are getting off.

We get our bags and get in the line for the free shuttle to the port gate.  The line is long but it moves fast.  The couple in front of us in the bus was not having a good day.  From what we heard (and those around us)  he had lost quite a bit at the casino on board.  They are mad taxis can't come right to the ship.  They aren't sure how to get to the train station.  We did not say anything -- there is no way I want to listen to them all the way to the train.

Once at the port gate we walk to the train station where we board the train to Pisa and then on to Lucca.  Easy!  But there is a shuttle bus for 2E from the port gate to the train station if you need it.  Also numerous shuttles, taxis, shared rides to Rome city, or airport at the port gate.  

We board our train to Pisa which is just under 3 hours.  We upgraded to first class train (nothing fancy but extra room and more room to store our bags between the seats).  

on train to Lucca they had this great up to date screen which showed speed of train, exactly where you were, next stop and connections at that next station.

Our train is late by 12 minutes and we only have 20 minutes between trains in Pisa but it runs very efficiently and when we get off in Pisa we just have to move one platform and catch the train to Lucca.  We also knew that if we missed that train there was another about 20 minutes later.  But we managed to get on the train with around 4 minutes to spare.

The ride to Lucca is short and when we get off we have to get orientated.  I pull out the paper map and try and figure it out, but street signs are not as easy to find in Europe so out comes the map app (make sure you download your map so you can view it off line) and we can quickly locate where we are and we are off in the direction of our Airbnb.

When we arrive at 1500 there is no one there so I open the Airbnb app and easily click on the contact host option and I am connected with Giorgia.  She arrives ten minutes later.

Note we have used Airbnb three times now and each time we have had to contact the host someway either by phone or email to let us in.  So having some free wifi or data plan and even phone plan in the country is necessary.  

When she arrives she apologizes thinking when I sent the message about when we would arrive at 1500 via the train she thought our train arrived at 1500 not that we would be at the door at 1500.  

She takes us up to the apartment which is located on the ground floor which is really the first floor in North America.

The place is HUGE - certainly bigger than our apartment at home.  Very nicely decorated.  Two bedroom, two bathrooms and very reasonably priced.  The kitchen has all modern appliances and omg there is a huge bathtub with rain shower.  The other bathroom has another one of those space ship beam me up showers.  

There is even a washer AND dryer!  

It is so nice to have this space and to make it feel like home.

We head out to wander the streets of Lucca, which are maze like.   We have a simple meal that starts with calpraise salad then we each have a bowl of bean soup and we share a plate of eggplant lasagna and of course a half litre of house red wine.  Total was 27 E.

We wander around some more and enjoy the ambiance.  Not many cars come into the walled city, most travel on foot and on bicycle.  

Roads are large boulders and the buildings ouze history.  If you look up you see the older ladies watching the sights of the streets below.

We need a few groceries for breakfasts and we locate a grocer using the map app.  Now these grocery stores are nothing like you would find at home.  These are small stores that carry most of what you would need.  But of course there are numerous stores for your baked goods (which we locate and buy some foccacia for tomorrow), wine, meats, cheese, pasta and well you name it.  

Back at the apartment we figure out the washer then dryer and we relax for a few hours.

Later on in the early evening we head out for our evening stroll walking arm in arm along the streets of Lucca.  Ahh life is good and I feel like I am in a movie - Under the Tuscan Sun, maybe?  

We check out some streets that lead to interesting spots.  We feel very safe here.  There are tourists here but nothing like many of the other cities we have visited like Rome, Venice, Florence or Barcelona.  Mainly locals and a few tourists.  

Of course what stroll would be complete without a stop for some gelato.  It is all in Italian and I don't know what the flavours are so I ask what her favorites are and I take that.  Ended up being hazelnut and marscapone.

The square we are in is called Piazza Amfiteatro - the old Roman amphitheater.  It use to be in this square (it actually sat 10,000) but was gradually cannibalized for its stones.  Now there are homes all around and on the main level stores, bars, restaurants and tourist shops.  The main floor here is actually nine feet above the original arena floor.  

We wander out and then Bernie comments "some wine would be nice" well low and behold a little wine bar (but also sells beer and cocktails) is there just calling our name.  We love these types of places.  Small, only a few chairs, most people stand, or take their drinks outside and enjoy their drinks.  The bar also provides little nibbles - like olives, bread, spreads, and other items, nothing big just to nibble on.

We each get a glass of red wine that is made locally and sip and enjoy the ambiance.

But we are beat, it has been a long day and we are looking forward to a few relaxing days here and the idea of sleeping in.  So we are back at the apartment early and I catch up on the blog.

I can hear the tv in the bedroom - but there are no Enlish channels so I can only hear Italian but he is watching it.  Hard to separate a man from his tv I guess.  He tells me later he was watching Pawn Stars in Italian!  Go figure.

Well good night everyone, thanks for following.

Venice and Lucca Accommodations Booked

Now that we are settled in our new home I have been focussing on our next grand trip.

Final payment for the cruise is due soon and it looks like it is going forward so we now need to make accommodation reservations for Venice and Lucca.

I love Airbnb and I secured a great place in Lucca for three nights.  We will head here right after the cruise.  

Lucca being situated near Florence and the port of Livorno, but we have never been there.  I insisted that we spend some time here.

We needed a place that accommodate us, but possibly another couple who may join us.  Prices in Lucca are quite reasonable compared to some of the other busy cities.  So we splurged and are still paying less per night than we will be spending in Venice.  

Here is a link to our apartment.  Edited.  After staying here I can highly recommend this place.   Read my blogs from mid sept to learn more.

After three nights in Lucca we will take the train to Venice for five nights.

Again the options are endless.  Hotels are great but boy are they expensive and even though they included breakfast it was out of our price range.  So again we reserved a nice place in Venice close to an area we really enjoyed when we were there last time.  

A link to our apartment can be found here.  Edited, after staying here i really can not recommend this place, read more in my mid sept. posts.

We didn't want to be in a busy area, like near the Rialto or Saint Marks Square we wanted more of a residential area. 

We wanted someplace near Santa Margherita where we spent some time on our last day in Venice.  Read about that great day here.  Oh and that wine store! 

Remember if you are interested in booking an Airbnb at some time, make sure to sign up and register here and you will receive a discount off your first booking for reading about it here.