Last Day in Rome - St. Peter's Bascilica

Today we knew we had to get up early.  Our goal was to be out the door at 8 am.  We were 20 minutes late but we were still quite proud of ourselves.

St. Peter's Basilica opens at 7 am. Now that would of been too early but we knew we wanted to be there before it got really crowded.  A lot of Italians are on a long weekend here so we knew it could be busy.

We walked to the Vatican(30 min walk) and the queue was long but it only got longer.  We waited 40 minutes to get through security.  

Remember while in the church - dress appropriately, remove your hat, no talking on your cell phone.  If you have a knapsack you will need to check it at the coat check after security.

This is our second visit to St. Peter's.  Last time we were here we saw a lot and even visited the Necropolis. To read  more click here.

Today our goal is to just walk around and enjoy it with no guide or schedule.  Bernie wanted to come back here to see it a second time.

It was lovely, and not crazy packed.  We were able to move around freely and get up close to many pieces.  Although this time we were not able to go right up to the alter and walk around it like last time.  I am not sure if this is a permanent change or temporary.  So I am glad we got to last time.

After 20 minutes we left and we can see the line for the security has snaked all around completely and doubled back.  Glad we got here early.

We walked around for a while, got our coffee, picked up some bus tickets for tomorrow's tram then returned to the apartment.

On the walk back we heard my name being called - our friend Juan who is also sailing with us was in a taxi stopped at a light.  Too funny that our paths would cross!

It is around 11 and we relax for a bit.

We want to head out again around 1 pm, but not sure where/what to do.  We are getting hungry and since our mid day meal has been our largest since arriving we head out to get a meal.

After a great meal we wander some more.  Thankfully it hasn't rain - although we are prepared with an umbrella at all times.  

I wanted something sweet and was craving a cannoli.  We find a spot and pick up one that is called a Sicilian Cannoli.  It was good, but I couldn't even finish it.  Just so rich.

Again we wander the streets of Rome just gawking.  We pop into a few shops but neither one of us are big shoppers.  But it is fun to look.

It is very busy everywhere so finding some quieter streets is a treat.

Back at the apartment around 4 pm we take note that we have logged 20,000 steps today!  Wow.

We relax - and I even had an hour nap.  We enjoy the wine we have and talk about our game plan for tomorrow.  

Pack up, take garbage down to the street, tidy up, luggage tags, time to leave, etc.

We are catching a train from Trastevere station which is very close to us and a short tram way away.  We could walk it in about a half hour but with our bags it is just as easy to take the tram.

Our train is at 10:27 and we will arrive at Civitavecchia station around 11:15 am.  I know we could take a shuttle but for the two of us it would be way too expensive - private would be 119 e each, or shared at 69 e each.  Our train ticket plus the tram is 8 e each.

We have really enjoyed our time in Rome.  Both of us are glad we came back.  Although both of us agree that we prefer the smaller, quieter places in Italy.   We much preferred Sardinia, Lucca, Genoa than the big cities like Rome or Venice.  

Everyone needs to see Rome, see the sites here but to get a "real" experience of Italy head outside of Rome.  

I have really liked staying in Trastevere, so easy to get around and a feel of a community.

So tomorrow we board the Crown for 24 days and we are both really looking forward to it.

Fun Night at Mamasi Wine Bar

After relaxing in the apartment for a while we knew we needed to get out and grab a small bite to eat and heck who am I kidding - some wine.

We decided to explore a bit closer to home and wandered the narrow streets of Trastevere.

Bernie spotted Mamasi wine bar and it looked inviting.

They had a big display of meats and cheeses and a large selection of wines to try.  

What is good is all these wines are from this area, or nearby.  The same with the cheeses/meats.  So the menu changes with what is available.

Simon took very good care of us - pouring our first selection.

We ordered a lovely starter of meats/cheeses to go with the wines.

I then moved to a Prosecco and after two glasses of Prossecco and a filled tummy we are realizing how damn happy we are.

Simon engages us with information about the area, the locals, the government.  We talk about Canada and of course the United States.  

The more we meet people from all over the world the more I realize we are all really the same.

We leave around 11:00 pm and wander down to get some gellato as our sweet.   

What a great night!  Nothing fancy, no amazing sites, but a great experience that we won't forget.

Tried to Get to Appian Way - Toured Around Instead

We are up earlier today!  Yeah!

A quick breakfast, shower and we are out of here.  Oh happy Halloween Everyone.  Although I see some signs of Halloween around Rome it is not like it is in North America.  But it also was Bernie Dad's Birthday.  

So our first stop was Santa Maria in Trastevere Church.  We have been here before and wanted to stop in again. It is so quiet this time.  We sit and reflect and light some candles for our family, but especially in honour of Bernie Senior.  I know he is watching us and is very proud of us.

Next stop - you guessed it -- espresso.  Oh my I love how easy it is to get a shot here and how inexpensive it is.  Takes no time and we are off for our next adventure.

There are a few spots we want to visit that we never got to on previous trips and the first one is Appia Antica or Appian Way.

Google Maps provides detailed information on bus routes and that is how we get there.  Don't forget to buy your transit ticket from a kiosk or tobacco stand prior to board.  Buses don't sell tickets here.  Also buy a return ticket.  

We bought four tickets at 1.50 E each.  When you get on the bus make sure to validate your ticket.  It provides 90 minutes of travel.

Bus 118 takes you right to the start of Appian Way.  

When we get off we are a little confused.  Not sure where to go.  Finally after a bit of wandering we figured it out.  But darn it is closed.  How can it be closed.  

Well apparently there were quite a few trees that toppled over.  Lots of branches that are down and a bit of flooding that caused a mess from the storms on Sunday and Monday.

Darn...  

So back out to the street to catch the bus going back.  Thankfully it is not too far out of the city center.

We get off to see the Mouth of Truth.  Do you remember that scene in Roman Holiday?  Well I do...  

It is free to visit, and the line is not that long, but I am guessing it is at least a half hour to wait and I don't feel like waiting just to get a picture with my hand in the mouth.  You can take pictures from the side of it and that is just what I did.

Back on a bus to the Victor Emanuelle Monument.  We decided to head back to a restaurant we fell in love with the last time we were here.  

See all the added security

La Cabana is within walking distance of the monument and a lot of locals come here.

We enjoy an amazing meal and walk away stuffed.  I can get use to having the big meal mid day.  Two days in a row and I am enjoying it.

From here we have more exploring to do.

We walk to the Trevi Fountain - man what a zoo.  Always is.  I quickly take a picture and leave.  I really do not like these high tourist spots but feel it is necessary to visit.

Also watch out for the pick pockets at places like this.  Tons of people, shoulder to shoulder with little place to move.

Oh I want to add that the last time we were in Rome all those selfie sticks were a nuisance.  I am happy to report that I see fewer and fewer of them now.  Now I find people walking while staring at their phones a nuisance.  But this happens everywhere and I have to have some kind of gripe.  Do people on their phones bother you?  Or is it just me?  Stop and move over people if you need to check your phone, not in the middle of the sidewalk.  Okay I will get off my soapbox.

Next stop the Pantheon.  The crowds are minimal and it is nice to find a quiet spot to really enjoy the church and it's beauty.  I had heard that they were looking at charging a minimal entrance fee.  I am happy to say that no they are still not charging - not sure how they can as churches are suppose to be free.  But also remember you need to dress appropriately, no hats, no shorts, no talking on the phone etc.

Off to Piazza Navona.  Again it is quieter here that on past visits.  

Campo de Fiori is a miss for us.  It is a touristy area that sells mainly to tourist only.  I would rather visit a local market than this square.  But it is quite interesting to watch the people. 

We cross the Tiber and get some sundry items for the apartment.  Soap, cereal, milk, wine, sparkling water and a chocolate bar (priorities).  

Back at the apartment for 4 pm and we will relax here until later tonight when we will go out for our evening stroll and maybe a small bite to eat.  Oh and I feel gelato may be in the plans too.

  

Wednesday November 11, 2015 – Civitavecchia for Rome

It is an early port day, we arrive for 7 am but we are docked earlier to that and clearance came quick.  The NCL Epic is in port too and we have friends getting on her today.

This is an industrial port and you have to take a ship’s shuttle to the main port gate – note that the main port gate is a little further north than it use to be and from what Rick Steve’s mentions. 

The Patter mentions that the first shuttle will start at 7:30 but we are down there at 7:20 and they are loading the shuttle buses that are like public buses now – when we came to board on Oct 25 we had big highway coaches and place to store luggage underneath.  The buses we have now are quick and easy to load.  The shuttle ride is about 7 minutes and drops you right at the port gate. 

Once at the gate you can meet up with your private guide here (note Princess Excursions come right to the pier to pick you up).  You can also hire a taxi here as well.  The other option was to take the small shuttle bus to the train station – cost was 2E each.  

the shuttle from the port to the train station

But since we have about 50 minutes before our train leaves we decide to walk.  The walk is an easy one and pretty flat and for us it took about 15 minutes but give yourself 20 minutes just in case.  In fact when we arrived at the train we beat the shuttle that many from our shuttle bus were on.

the train station

Now when you arrive at the train station there was a ticket booth selling bus tickets with hop on hop off tickets and at first we were going to go in there but we noticed it said travel agent and did not look like the train ticket booth.  Sneaky… cause many were buying them, and perhaps unwittingly.

We find the ticket booth in the train station and we buy the BIRG ticket which is 12E each (may be cheaper for seniors – but I can’t confirm).  The BIRG ticket gives you round trip transport on the train and then unlimited use of the buses/trams and metro in Rome, ticket expires at midnight.

We are taking the 842 train into Roma – but we will get off at Trastevere.  Note the stop prior is San Pietro for the Vatican, but the train then heads to Termini if necessary.  

don't forget to validate your ticket

You should check the train scheduled from their website ahead of time.  The train trip to Trastevere is about 45 minutes give or take five.

check the board for what track your train will arrive on

but first a coffee stop

Once off the train we catch the #8 bus – or you can take the tram to Cesto Bridge where we start Rick Steve’s Trastevere audio tour. 

We love the tour and the places it takes us. 

The Santa Cecilia in Trastevere is stunning and the story behind it even better.

Another great church is Santa Maria in Trastevere.

   
The tour took about an hour and we cross over the bridge over the Tiber and wander around checking out churches, sites and even the Piazzo Navona. 

We are determined to go to a restaurant that our friend Claudio recommended.  We tried on two different occasions to dine her when we stayed in Rome but to no avail.  This time we make it to the restaurant Maccheroni.

The place fills up quickly with workers, no tourists, but they are very helpful and we get a starter.  Anchovies in butter for Bernie and I get a cheese and honey plate.  For our entrée I get the pasta with spicy cheese and Bernie gets their penne with tomato and basil and chilies and it is good too.  Of course a litre of house wine.  No dessert and the whole meal comes to 50E and was very very good.

We are full and we have been walking a lot but we are determined to walk to the Trevi Fountain now that it is now open.  It is a short walk of about 15 minutes and the place is packed – a lot different than the last time we were here.

We each throw a coin into the fountain to ensure our return. 

The place is hoping – all of Rome is it seems.  The weather is great (low 20s) in fact we take off layers.  We are walking back and stop by the Pantheon and then catch the tram, back to a few stops shy of the train station.  We walk back to the train station after picking up a few sundries – shampoo/conditioner and aspirin.

At the station we run into Karin and John who are just heading back too.  We catch the train just after 1500 (I believe it was 1527) and it is busy.  The ride is quick and we get up and get off all together and we notice it is a little different but we start walking along the roadway and we are laughing and catching up with John/Karin. 

After walking for about 15 minutes we all comment that this just doesn’t look similar to this morning. 

Oh no we got off at the stop prior to the one we needed to.  What town are we in?  It is not Civitavecchia.  Okay we can turn around and high tail it back and hopefully catch another train.  We are early, still it is around 16:30 and the last shuttle from the pier is 1800.

Thankfully we walk fast enough to catch the 16:55 train!  

Our last option – next option would have been a taxi.  But if by chance we did miss the ship we could easily have taken a train to the next port of Livorno for the next day.  But we made it and we are off in Civitavecchia – now this station does look familiar at 17:05.

The 2E shuttle was there waiting but we have enough time to walk back and I want to see the town a bit more.  There is quite a bit here.  You will certainly find anything you may need here.  The town is lovely and I would love to explore it some more in the future.

Taking the train into Rome is a very easy option and very economical and you have the flexibility of planning your own day.  It is very unlikely you could catch any train prior to 8:15 if docking at 7:00.

We are back on board and we are beat!  I don’t want to dress for dinner and we head up to the Horizon Court – but we are not the only ones with that idea.  The place is very busy, but the ship seems to manage quite well.

It will be an early night for us – we are both tired and I am just under 30,000 steps today.  All that walking in Rome and then back and forth from the wrong port sure adds up.  See even I can screw up but it was easily fixed and makes a great story now.

We are watching tv in the cabin right now and we have put out the breakfast room service menu for tomorrow.  

Tomorrow we are in Livorno and we are heading to Florence with a scheduled meeting time of 7:15 in Crooners we better get a good rest.